I consider myself fortunate to be the recipient of the Society of Women Writers NSW patron, Emeritus Professor Di Yerbury’s residency. Barnstaple is one of the oldest boroughs in England with its history dating back to 900AD. Once a port town on the River Taw, it retains evidence of a vibrant past. Queen Anne’s Walk (formerly The Mercantile Exchange) completed in 1713 is just one of many impressive buildings. Cargoes, shipped from around the world, were once offloaded and traded. Today it is a café from where you can see the Long Bridge spanning the Taw. An 800 year-old stone, arched bridge it still carries traffic today. Di’s apartment is conveniently located within easy walking of the medieval town centre and the High Street which is a bustling shopping area.
Queen Anne’s Walk and The Strand in foreground – Butchers Row and the Pannier Market
Visits to the local library, Athenaeum and museums in Barnstaple and Braunton have resulted in new information relevant to my 5 x great grandfather (just one of my ancestors being researched for my book with the working title of The Photo Album). Edward Luttrell was born at Saunton Court in 1756 and baptised at St Brannocks Church, Braunton … just 5 miles from Barnstaple. Locals have told me the Court is beautiful and I’ve written seeking permission to visit. If that fails, a public footpath runs alongside and I can walk the perimeter. Not only do the museums and libraries hold (and reproduce for me) documents of interest but they are an invaluable source for understanding the social, economic and environment of the periods I’m writing about.
St Brannocks Church, Braunton and the font where Edward Luttrell was baptised.
‘The font is intriguing, with carved human heads at each corner. It is in a Norman-style but is almost certainly 13th or 14th century, so it may be that an old Norman font was reworked during the Decorated period.’
After just three weeks in Barnstaple I’m feeling like a local. The residents of Alexandra Court have welcomed another Aussie into their midst. In my first week here, I also met three women who have already become friends, generously sharing their local knowledge of the surrounding area and its history.
Introduced by Ann Beaumont, Sue has taken me to meet with U3A members and I’ve been invited to join the literary group and other activities. Sue and I enjoyed time together at the historic and magnificent Rosemoor Garden. Nicola, met outside the library, has shown me around historic Barnstaple and searches out interesting information. With Faye, met on a bus, a councillor for 46 years and one-time Mayor of Barnstaple (a fount of knowledge), I’ve explored the hills and moors and Atlantic coastline at Saunton and Croyde, giving me insights into the topography, local plants and insects. The north Devon coastline is rugged and dramatic. The remains of ancient forts, crumbling cottages, sheep and cattle grazing on lush fields enclosed by stone fences, paint the quintessential English picture. Across the Exmoor, between Lynmouth and Minehead, the heather and gorse are blooming. As I looked down from the top of an open bus into the Doone Valley (Lorna Doone) I was lucky enough to glimpse a lone stag.
A walk to Baggy Point, Croyde
Across the Exmoor the heather and gorse flower – Doone Valley
Summer has arrived and school is out here in England. Holiday makers are making the most of Barnstaple and the nearby sandy beaches. The weather is warm and the occasional drift of soft rain does nothing to dampen the spirits. The blackberries are still ripening but here and there an early plump berry is too tempting to resist eating … bringing memories of my childhood.
At the end of August I’ve arranged to visit the Welsh Archives at Aberystwyth (I have my readers’ ticket) before going to the villages of Cowbridge and Llantwit Fardre in search of ‘old bones’.
From Barnstaple – bye for now.
Jan Conway